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Once the hawk does snap at the meat and swallow, allow her to eat the <br />thumbnail sized piece. Offer her another one, and see if she refocuses her eyes from <br />your face to the meat when she does. At this moment you will see her desire for the <br />food begin to override her fear of man. If she becomes full or begins refusing the food, <br />put her away and begin later. If she is still hungry and eager to participate, allow her to <br />eat a few more pieces, and watch for her head to start reaching forward in <br />anticipation of the food. Now you can begin to move the tidbits down a bit lower down <br />her body, ever coming closer to your glove. Repeat this process of offering a tidbit, her <br />eating it, and you lowering the height of the tidbit until she is eagerly snapping them up <br />from the level of her own feet on the glove. <br />Begin putting tidbits on the glove only and cease finger or tongs feeding at this <br />point. The hawk should at this point (please be sure she is still tethered to either the <br />glove or her perch!) allow you to 'wipe' her off onto the back of a chair, her perch, or <br />any other similar stationary object. Do this, and place a piece of meat onto your glove. <br />Offer this to her at the level of her beak. She will most likely hesitate for a moment, <br />pause, and then eat the meat like you have conditioned her to do. Repeat the process <br />of offering a tidbit and lowering the glove until she is standing on the perch and <br />feeding from the glove at the height of her feet. <br />Now once she is eagerly eating from the foot-height garnished (with a tidbit) <br />glove, back off a bit. She will reach to get the food. Repeat this process after she eats <br />the food, and move back a bit farther. She will contort herself into odd positions as she <br />tries to get at the food without jumping or flying... but eventually she will give into her <br />greedy nature and hop to the glove for the meat. Repeat this same action, every time <br />moving a bit farther back in response to each successful feeding. <br />At this point, two things should be done -one, begin getting your new hawk <br />accustomed to the world and its oddities; barking dogs, cars, the househould, and <br />bring her outside. Also, she should not be perched outside until she has begun flying to <br />you on the creance. If she is, she may bate repeatedly and injure herself as she has not <br />fully come to understand the life of a captive hawk. <br />Once she has begun hopping the length of the leash, now comes the time for <br />the use of the creance -along, thin line (suggested creances are 30 to 100 feet of <br />braided nylon twine or very thin parachute cord in a similar length - do not use twisted <br />twine or fishing-line monofilament for this). Take her to a short length lawn (football <br />fields, large backyards, pastureland with short grass) and bring a perch. Place heron <br />the perch and holding onto the creance in one hand, offer her a tidbit on the glove <br />with the other. She should hop to it as eagerly as she had done indoors. Repeat the <br />process, and back up a few feet. She should fly immediately to you without delay. If she <br />8 <br />