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3. Defend against erosion <br />A sediment and erosion control plan <br />that conforms to local sedimentation <br />and erosion standards or the best <br />management practices in the EPA's <br />Stormwater Management for <br />Construction Activities (whichever is <br />more stringent) should have the <br />following objectives: <br />a. Prevent loss of soil during <br />construction by Stormwater runoff <br />and/or wind erosion, including <br />protecting topsoil by stockpiling for <br />reuse. <br />b. Also prevent longer term <br />sedimentation of streams, <br />Stormwater drains and/or air <br />pollution with dust and particulate <br />matter. <br />^ Do not remove valuable trees and <br />shrubs, especially near waterways. <br />Protect them with fencing. <br />^ Schedule grading for the dry season. <br />^ Use compost berms, blankets, or <br />socks. The EPA specifes that, <br />depending on the length and height <br />of a particular slope, a I /2-inch to fl- <br />inch layer of mature, screened <br />compost, placed directly on top of the <br />soil, controls erosion by enhancing <br />planted or volunteer vegetation <br />growth. <br />^ Construct earth dikes or install silt <br />fencing, sediment traps, and sediment <br />basins. <br />^ Terrace steep slopes. <br />^ Hydroseed or otherwise plant to <br />reduce bare soil, but do not over- <br />plant for instant color. Annuals and <br />short-lived perennials can be used to <br />fill in areas while larger trees & shrubs <br />become established. Cover crops <br />provide excellent short-term cover <br />that also adds nitrogen and/or organic <br />matter when it is later tilled into the <br />soil. <br />^ Mulch regularly. <br />^ Minimize the use of blowers. <br />The likelihood of erosion is lessened, <br />thereby conserving topsoil and <br />protecting aquatic habitat. <br />4. Amend the soil with compost before planting <br />Compost is thriving with microorganisms <br />one teaspoon can have more than <br />one billion benefcial microbes. Adding <br />good quality compost before planting <br />turf, annuals, perennials, trees and shrubs <br />brings life to the soil and feeds existing <br />soil organisms. Compost is effective in <br />improving problem soils - in particular <br />those that are compacted, heavy clay or <br />sandy, poor in nutrients, or lead <br />contaminated. It is one of the most <br />important practices for a healthy, thriving, <br />Bay Friendly landscape. <br />It is important to first assess the soil for <br />physical and chemical problems. Refer to <br />the section Landscape Locally in these <br />guidelines. <br />^ If topsoil has been removed and <br />stored during building construction, <br />mix one cubic yard of compost into <br />3 5 cubic yards of soil before re- <br />spreading. <br />^ If the topsoil has not been removed <br />then sheet mulching is an efficient <br />means of adding compost & other <br />organic matter while controlling <br />weeds. Refer to the tip on sheet- <br />mulching on page 25 for more <br />information. <br />^ For turf or groundcover installations: <br />Incorporate I-2 inches (3 I/3 - 6 2/3 <br />cubic yards) of compost into 1000 <br />square feet. Mix it with the top 5-7 <br />inches of soil. <br />^ For preparing planting beds: Spread <br />2-4 inches of compost over the <br />surface of the soil and incorporate it <br />into the top 12-24 inches of the <br />planting bed. <br />^ Mixing compost into the backfll of a <br />planting hole for trees and shrubs <br />may not yield signifcant benefits. <br />Some research indicates that young <br />plants beneft more than mature <br />plants. Some specialists also believe <br />that amending backfll can create such <br />a difference between the soil in the <br />hole and the surrounding soil that the <br />roots don't grow outwards it is as <br />if they are growing in a pot. To <br />prevent this problem, amend the <br />entire bed or create planting holes <br />that are no deeper than the root ball <br />and a minimum of 3 times size of the <br />transplant's root ball. Rough up the <br />sides of the hole. Mix soil from the <br />hole with compost at a rate of I part <br />compost to 3-5 parts soil (by volume) <br />and backfill. Make the hole shallower <br />and create a mound in heavy clay <br />soils. <br />^ And, consider the conditions under <br />which the plant grows naturally. Some <br />California natives require less fertile <br />soils and compost may not be <br />necessary. <br />^ Finally, quality compost is important. <br />Use compost made from local green <br />and food waste to maximum feasible. <br />Specify compost from a producer that <br />is enrolled in the US Composting <br />Council's Standard Testing Assurance <br />(STA) program. <br />Benefits <br />Compost fosters a diverse, fertile, and <br />disease suppressive soil. You and your <br />clients may see both long and short- <br />term benefts, including faster plant <br />establishment, decreased fertilizer & <br />pesticide use and lower water usage. <br />~~ <br />w+, <br />Mulch is placed on <br />miles of freeway <br />hillsides by <br />Caltrans. <br />PHOTO: THE MUNICIPAL <br />WATER DISTRICT OF <br />ORANGE COUNTY, <br />LANDSCAPE <br />MANAGEMENT FOR <br />WATEN SAVINGS <br />BV TOM ASH. <br />29 <br />